The Sasha Doll Seller's Guide
Whether you're a long-time collector or someone who has simply inherited or come across a Sasha, this guide walks you through everything from "what is it?" to "how do I get the best price without a refund landing on my doorstep."
A little background (so you know what you're holding)
Sasha dolls were created by the Swiss artist Sasha Morgenthaler (1893–1975). She made her first dolls by hand for her own children, then in her Zurich studio — these original studio dolls are now museum-quality pieces that can sell for very large sums. There are really three quite different families of Sasha doll: the handmade studio dolls, the course dolls made by her students, and the mass-produced vinyl Sasha dolls. The studio and course dolls are identified and priced completely differently — see the dedicated section below — while the rest of this step-by-step guide focuses on the vinyl production dolls that most people are actually selling. (A note on terminology: among collectors the word "Serie" is reserved for dolls that actually carry the "Sasha Serie" mark — the everyday vinyl dolls are simply called Sasha dolls.)
To make her dolls affordable, she licensed two factories to mass-produce them:
- Götz (Germany) — first period roughly 1965–1970, then a collector-aimed relaunch 1995–2001.
- Frido / Trendon (England) — roughly 1966–1986, run by the Doggart family. Production stopped abruptly in early 1986. The English Sasha is the one most collectors know.
The dolls are about 16–17 inches (40–42 cm), made of vinyl/PVC, with rooted synthetic hair (a few limited editions had human-hair wigs), painted eyes and the famous wistful, neutral expression. The range included Sasha (girl), Gregor (boy), Cora and Caleb (Black dolls), babies and a few toddlers, plus named limited editions.
Studio and course dolls — a different world
The mass-produced vinyl dolls in this guide are the everyday Sasha dolls. But Sasha Morgenthaler also made — and taught others to make — handmade dolls that are far rarer and far more valuable. These are not identified or priced like the vinyl dolls, and if you believe you have one, it deserves specialist authentication and appraisal, never a quick online listing.
In rough order of value, highest first:
- Studio dolls — hard body. One-of-a-kind dolls made by Morgenthaler's own hand in her Zurich studio (1940s–1975), around 20 inches tall, with hard (gypsum/plastic) heads and bodies. Museum-quality art dolls — the very top of the market, reaching the low thousands.
- Studio dolls — cloth body. Also made by Morgenthaler herself, in the earlier construction of moulded gypsum heads with cloth bodies. Collectors classify them by body "type" and face-mask "type" (for example a "B" cloth body with a "Type III" face). Just below the hard-body studio dolls, but still highly prized.
- Course dolls. Made either by students in the doll-making classes Morgenthaler ran in her Zurich studio with her assistant Trudi Löffler-Roos, under her supervision, or at home from the official Sasha kits she sold — both count as course dolls. They generally have cloth bodies with pressed-cloth faces painted by the maker. Because they were not made by Morgenthaler's own hand, they sell for far less — around £350–400 — not the low thousands that her true studio dolls command.
Identifying and handling a studio doll:
- Authenticate by the foot, not the head. Studio dolls are usually signed on the bottom of one foot. Some do carry a marking on the head, but it sits under the wig and isn't guaranteed to be there — so never remove a studio doll's wig to look for it. You risk damaging a valuable, irreplaceable doll for a mark that may not even exist. Leave the wig alone and rely on the foot signature plus an expert opinion.
- Original clothes add real value. A studio doll in its original clothing sells for noticeably more than a redressed one — and you can recognise genuine Morgenthaler clothing by the "Sasha" label sewn into it.
- Cloth doesn't mean cheap. Some cloth dolls made by Morgenthaler's own hand look almost identical to course dolls but are worth far more — which is exactly why any cloth Sasha-type doll should be expertly authenticated, never assumed to be a (cheaper) course doll.
Why this matters when selling:
- Identification is specialist work. These dolls are unmarked and handmade, so they're identified by construction, materials, face/body type and provenance — not by a stamp. The reference books by Ann Chandler, Susanna Lewis and Anne Votaw (Sasha Dolls: The History and Sasha Dolls: Serie Identification) and the Sasha collector community are essential.
- Price and sell differently. Never price a studio or course doll from vinyl-Sasha sold listings. Get a specialist valuation and consider selling through an auction house or the specialist collector community, where the expertise and the right buyers are.
Step 1 — Identify your doll
Before you can price it, you need to know who made it and roughly when. Check these, in order:
The markings. This is the quickest tell:
- Studio dolls — usually signed on the bottom of one foot; some may carry a head marking hidden under the wig, but never remove a studio doll's wig to check (see "Studio and course dolls" above).
- First-period Götz — marked "Sasha Serie" in a circle on the back of the head.
- Second-period Götz (1995–2001) — generally carry a marking on the back of the head (a Sasha Götz mark with mould numbers); babies are unmarked.
- Trendon / Frido — generally unmarked on the head; identified by features, packaging and wrist tags rather than a head stamp.
The face and features. Small changes help date a doll — for example, the philtrum (the little groove between nose and lip) was added after 1968, so a smooth upper lip suggests an earlier doll. In the late 1970s Trendon moved to silk-screened faces and a lighter skin tone, and the child dolls grew slightly taller.
The stringing and neck. The colour of the stringing and the type of neck attachment are useful dating clues — collectors use them to help pin down the year of manufacture. One caveat: this only holds if the doll hasn't been re-strung at some point, which replaces the original string.
Named or limited editions. Names like Gingham, Kiltie, Princess, Wintersport, Sari, Hiker, Alberto, Anna indicate a limited edition — always worth identifying, though in practice only some (notably Princess) command a real premium, while many sell close to standard doll prices. Trendon's limited editions ran mainly 1981–1985.
If you're unsure, the collector reference Sasha Dolls: Serie Identification (by "the three Anns") is the standard book, and the Sasha Morgenthaler collectors' group on Facebook can confirm an ID from good photos.
Tip: Note the doll's number if present (e.g. a Trendon 4-301 Gregor, or a 107 / 108 girl). Collectors search by these.
Step 2 — Inspect the condition honestly
This is the step most casual sellers skip — and it's where refunds come from. Undress the doll fully and check everything in good daylight. With Sasha dolls, look at:
Hair
- Is it the original length and style, or has it been cut/restyled? Original, uncut hair is worth more.
- Check for thinning, frizz, or chopped fringes.
- Inspect closely for missing hair plugs — small bald spots where plugs have come away. Early brunette Sashas (girls, boys and babies) are especially prone to hair loss, so check the crown and parting carefully.
- Look for fading — sun-faded hair (and faces) lowers value noticeably.
Face and eyes
- Are the eyes and features original factory paint, or has the doll been repainted/customised? Repaints sell for less to purists (though a beautiful artist repaint has its own market — just describe it as such).
- Check for rubs, scratches, ballpoint-pen (biro) marks, or paint loss.
Vinyl and body
- Look for stains — a very common one is a mark left by perished elastic from old knickers or clothing that has melted onto the body. Also check for ink or glue marks and any discolouration.
- Check for sticky or tacky vinyl, odd discolouration, or an uneven skin tone.
- Smell it — musty, smoky or damp odours put buyers off and should be disclosed.
Stringing, neck and posing (important for Sasha)
- Sasha dolls are held together with internal stringing under tension. Over time this loosens, which causes a "neck cave" — the collector term for when the neck collapses and the head drops down — and a doll that won't hold a pose or sit/stand properly. (A neck cave can sometimes be improved by re-stringing, but describe it honestly either way.)
- Gently check the tension: does the head sit proudly, do the limbs stay where you put them? Note any looseness honestly — "good stringing tension, no neck cave" is a genuine selling point.
Limbs and joints
- Check for splits, cracks, repairs, chew marks, or a leg/arm that has been re-attached.
Originality of outfit and shoes
- Original factory clothing, knitted socks and shoes add value. Note whether the outfit is original, vintage-Sasha, or handmade/replaced. Trendon shoes and original belts are sought after (and old belts are a classic culprit for stuck-on marks).
Golden rule: if you wouldn't want to receive the doll without being told about a flaw, then disclose it. Every flaw you photograph and describe is a refund you've prevented.
Step 3 — Note what's included (completeness)
Completeness can swing the price a long way. Note and photograph whatever you have:
- Box or cardboard tube (Trendon's classic packaging) — boxed/tubed dolls are worth more.
- Wrist tag — the blue/red/white "Sasha" tag tied to the arm.
- Booklet / leaflet / picture cards / price list.
- Original outfit, socks, shoes, belt.
- Accessories — baby basket, padded nest, "dress sets" (extra outfits), patterns.
A "mint, boxed, all original with tag and booklet" doll is a different proposition from a redressed, played-with one — and should be described (and priced) accordingly.
Step 4 — Work out a realistic price
There is no fixed price list — value depends on the combination of:
- Maker and era — early Götz and original studio dolls sit at the top; common later Trendon and 1995–2001 Götz are more affordable.
- Originality — uncut hair, factory face paint, original clothes/shoes.
- Condition — stains, fading, sunken neck, sticky vinyl and repairs all reduce value.
- Rarity — named limited editions, unusual hair/eye types, early pre-philtrum features.
- Completeness — box/tube, tag, booklet, original outfit.
Rough orientation ranges (UK, as a starting point only):
- Common vintage Trendon Sasha or Gregor, good original condition: typically ~£100–£250.
- Exceptional / rare / early / boxed-mint: £300–£500+.
- Played-with, flawed, or redressed: roughly £40–£100.
- Most limited editions actually sell close to standard doll prices — with Princess Sasha the notable exception, often reaching several hundred pounds.
- Toddlers were produced only briefly, so they're scarce and command higher prices.
- Studio and course dolls: a different market entirely (see "Studio and course dolls" above) — get a specialist appraisal, never guess from vinyl prices.
How to price accurately — don't guess, check sold prices:
- Search eBay → filter to "Sold items" for the same doll/number/condition. Sold prices matter; asking prices don't.
- Check auction results (saleroom/auction sites). For help with identification or valuation, the Sasha Morgenthaler collectors' group (facebook.com/groups/sasha.morgenthaler) is invaluable — it's a collectors' group rather than a sales group, but the members will gladly respond to questions.
- Match like-for-like: a boxed mint doll is not a comparable for a redressed one.
Pricing strategy: if you want a quick sale, price at or just below recent sold prices. If you're not in a hurry, you can start a little higher and reduce later — just know it may sit for a while. A fair, well-evidenced price with honest photos almost always sells faster than an optimistic one.
Step 5 — Photograph it properly
Good photos sell the doll and protect you (they're your proof of condition). Use natural daylight, a plain background, and take:
- Full length, front and back, dressed.
- Full length undressed, front and back (buyers expect to see the body).
- Face close-up (shows original paint and any rubs).
- Back of head / markings (proves the maker/era).
- Hair from a few angles (crown, nape).
- Any flaw, close up — stains, sunken neck, repairs, fading, thin hair. Photograph the faults deliberately.
- What's included — box/tube, tag, booklet, shoes, outfit.
Clear flaw photos feel counter-intuitive, but they are the single best defence against a "not as described" claim.
Step 6 — Write an honest, complete description
A good Sasha listing covers, in plain order:
- What it is — maker, era, type, name/number if known (e.g. "Vintage Trendon Sasha girl, c.1975, brunette, painted eyes").
- Originality — original hair (uncut?), original face paint, original/replaced outfit and shoes.
- Condition — go through it honestly: hair, face, body/stains, stringing & neck, posing, any repairs, smell. State the good and the not-so-good.
- What's included — box/tube, wrist tag, booklet, outfit, accessories.
- Anything you did — e.g. "New in box; I opened the box only to check and photograph the condition, as advised."
- Price and terms — price, postage, returns policy.
Honesty templates you can adapt:
- "Sold as seen, fully described and photographed. Please study the photos, which form part of the description."
- "Original, uncut hair and factory face paint. Good stringing tension, no sunken neck." (only if true)
- "Small stain to [area] from perished elastic, shown in photos."
- If cross-posting: "Please note: this doll is also listed elsewhere. Once sold, it will be removed from all other listings."
If you are not a collector, say so plainly and describe what you can see — "I'm not a Sasha expert, so I've photographed everything in detail; please ask if you'd like more pictures." Honesty about your own limits is disarming and builds trust.
Step 7 — Where to sell
Sasha Doll Bazaar (Facebook) is the dedicated Sasha buying-and-selling group and one of the best places to sell — full of knowledgeable collectors who pay fairly for honestly described dolls.
- Dolls group: facebook.com/groups/398928287282920
- There's a separate group for clothing and accessories — Sasha Dolls Bazaar Outfits: facebook.com/groups/828697083874769
These are selling groups only — not for questions. For identification or valuation help, use the Sasha Morgenthaler collectors' group instead (see Steps 1 and 4).
To sell there:
- Get approved by answering the membership questions and agreeing to the rules — completing these is what gets you automatically approved.
- Once you're in, read the rules carefully and list and post exactly as they require.
- Note that the group does not allow links to active eBay auctions or any other auctions — list within the group's own format instead.
Check your messages — including the hidden ones. Interested buyers will message you directly. But if a buyer isn't on your Facebook friends list, their message doesn't land in your normal inbox — it goes quietly to Message Requests (sometimes shown as "Filtered"), often with no notification at all. Check it regularly or you'll miss sales. To find it: open Messenger → Message requests (in the phone app, tap your profile photo or the menu to find it; on a computer, look near the top of your chats list). Once you approve a buyer, their later messages arrive normally.
Other options:
- eBay — widest reach; use the Sold filter to price, and expect fees.
- Doll fairs and collector forums — good for rarer pieces and building a reputation.
- Auction houses — sensible for studio dolls or rare limited editions, where expert valuation and a bidding audience matter.
For valuable or rare dolls, the specialist route usually beats a general marketplace.
Step 8 — Pack and ship safely
- Wrap the doll in acid-free tissue or soft cloth; support the neck/head so stringing isn't stressed in transit.
- A handy collector trick: wrap the doll's face in a clean baby nappy (diaper) — the soft padding cushions the face and head beautifully.
- Wrap shoes, tag and small parts separately so they can't rub or mark the doll.
- Use a sturdy box with plenty of padding — never a thin jiffy bag.
- If the original tube/box is part of the sale, box it inside another box so the collectible packaging arrives undamaged.
- Insure anything of value and use tracked postage. Keep your proof of postage.
Step 9 — Avoid disputes and refunds
Most doll disputes come from surprises, not flaws. You can sell a doll with a neck cave or a stain perfectly happily — as long as the buyer knew. To stay safe:
- Inspect, photograph and disclose every flaw (Steps 2 and 5).
- Describe accurately and let the photos do the heavy lifting (Step 6).
- Be wary of selling "new in box, unopened" without checking — hidden problems (perished elastic stains, loose stringing, a doll that won't pose) become your problem if a picky buyer opens it. Opening to inspect and photograph is the safer choice.
- State your returns policy clearly and keep all messages and postage records.
A doll that is honestly described and well photographed protects your money, your time, and your reputation.
Quick pre-sale checklist
- Identified maker and era (markings, features)
- Noted name/number and whether it's a limited edition
- Undressed and inspected: hair, face, body/stains, stringing/neck cave, posing, limbs
- Checked originality of hair, paint, outfit, shoes
- Listed what's included (box/tube, tag, booklet, accessories)
- Researched recent sold prices for the same doll/condition
- Set a realistic price (and a plan to reduce if not in a hurry)
- Photographed: full length dressed & undressed, face, markings, hair, every flaw, extras
- Written an honest, complete description with terms and returns
- Planned safe, padded, tracked, insured postage
Compiled to help both collectors and non-collectors alike — these are questions I'm asked again and again, so I've gathered the answers here in one place. Prices are orientation only; always check recent sold listings for the specific doll and condition.